Birding Santa Marta Mountains

Snow-capped peaks of the Santa Marta Mountains at sunset.

Carrying on our travel in Colombia we moved to Minca as the gateway to the legendary Santa Marta Mountains. Here we had booked three days with Cristian Manrique (Instagram Manrique Birding and WhatsApp +57 310 7364337). Cristian was recommended by Joel one of our best guides in Mexico and he was absolutely fantastic – great at bird ID (in flight, by sound) and picking out a sulky bird deep in the vegetation. We had a wonderful three days with him and you should definitely book him for birding in Colombia.

Day 1 – Around Minca

On our first day we focused on birding around Minca so from about 600-900m. We started with a lovely interaction with a Collared Aracari hunting along a branch and eating a couple of huge millipedes. This is a beautiful bird with its piecing eye, jagged bill and fiery colours.

  • Aracari perched on a branch in the Santa Marta Mountains. Birding in Columbia.
  • Aracari bird perched on a branch in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Colorful Collared Aracari toucan perched on a branch with prey in its beak. Birding Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Collared Aracari bird with a millipede in its beak, perched on a branch in Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Aracari eating a centipede in the Santa Marta Mountains. Birding adventure.
  • Aracari perched on a branch in Santa Marta Mountains. Striking bird with a large, colorful beak.
  • Millipede crawling on moss in the Santa Marta Mountains.

Other highlights from our first morning included Blue Ground Dove, Chivi Vireo, the hard to see Rosy Thrush Tanager and photographed below Swallow Tanager, Crimson Backed Tanager, Chestnut Capped Warbler, Crested Oropendola and Streaked Flycatcher.

  • Turquoise Dacnis bird with black bib perched on a branch in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Crimson-backed Tanager in Santa Marta Mountains, Colombia. Red bird perched on branch.
  • Santa Marta Brush-Finch with insect. Birding in Santa Marta Mountains, Colombia.
  • Santa Marta Warbler bird eating an insect in the Santa Marta Mountains. Birding in Colombia.
  • Female Brown-chested Martin in Santa Marta Mountains habitat.
  • Two pendulous bird nests hang from tree branches against a blue sky.
  • Santa Marta bird perched on a branch. Brown bird with speckled chest in its natural habitat.

In the afternoon we invited a couple of backpackers we met over lunch to join us on a walk around the outskirts of the town. Pleased to add Shiny Cowbird and Yellow-Oriole to my life list. However seeing a King Vulture quite close and a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl being mobbed by a mixed flock were probably the highlights of the walk.

  • Shiny black bird in green grass, possibly a grackle or other bird from the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Black bird near a cow in the Santa Marta Mountains. Birding in Colombia.
  • Olive-sided flycatcher bird perched on a branch in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Tyrant flycatcher bird perched on a branch in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Santa Marta Brush-Finch perched on a branch. Birding in Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Santa Marta Brush-Finch on a branch. Birding Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.

Day 2 – Drive to Mountain House

On our second day we drove to Mountain House at 1700m where we spent the night. This day was wonderful birding adding most of the lower level endemics such as Sierra Nevada Bushfinch and Santa Marta Antbird.

  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small, round warbler bird perched on a mossy branch during a drive up Sheriffmuir.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.

It wasn’t just birds that caught our eye either but opportunities to view local insects and fungi too.

  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Bright pink bananas growing in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Bright yellow mushrooms growing on a decaying log in the Santa Marta Mountains.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.

Before arriving at the lodge for lunch we were enjoying a troop of Red Howler Monkeys when a Becard caught Cristian’s excellent eye. This turned out to be a super rare for this area Black and White Becard and we worked hard to get a photo showing its tail from underneath to support the record. We also heard the very hard to see Scaled Antpitta close but did not see it before lunch called us to the lodge.

  • Small greenish warbler bird perched on a lichen-covered branch, Sheriffmuir woodland.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.

Once at the Mountain House lodge we enjoyed lunch whilst seeing 28 species visit the wonderful feeder setup. It was a great opportunity to focus on the photography over the birding and get some great shots of hummingbirds and tanagers. We did also add another lifer when a Groove-Billed Toucanet arrived for some fruit.

  • Willow warbler perched on a mossy branch. Sheriffmuir birdwatching.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Small bird perched on a budding branch on Sheriffmuir. Brown and white plumage.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.

After a rest in the afternoon we went out again and walked above the lodge hoping to see the Scaled Antpitta we had heard before lunch. Cristian our awesome guide had only ever heard this bird so it would be special for him too. After about 40 minutes our patience was rewarded! Soon after we also saw the Grey-Throated Leaftosser also difficult to see. After dusk we were delighted to first hear and then see the recently named Santa Marta Screech Owl another wonderful endemic.

  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Meadow pipit perched on a budding branch in Sheriffmuir.

Day 3 – San Lorenzo Ridge

We were up at 3.30am to take the slow 4×4 drive to 2,600m and the legendary San Lorenzo Ridge. On the way we saw a Mottled Owl. Once on the ridge we took a few minutes to watch the sunrise with a blanket of cloud far below us.

  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Santa Marta Mountains silhouette at sunset, vibrant sky. Birding destination.
  • Santa Marta Mountains vista with layers of misty peaks and a silhouetted tree in the foreground.
  • Santa Marta Mountains vista with lush greenery and distant peaks under a partly cloudy sky. Birding paradise.

But before long it was back to birding and the endemics and lifers came quick and fast – Band-Tailed Guan, Sierra Nevada Antpitta, Brown-Rumped Tapaculo, Montane Woodcreeper, Streak-Capped Spinetail, Rusty-Headed Spinetail, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Hermit Woodwren, Santa Marta Warbler, Yellow-Crowned Redstart, Black-Cheeked Mountain Tanager – it really was wonderful birding in a beautiful location. We did dip on the Santa Marta Parakeet (it is nesting now so not a great time to see it) but I don’t mind having a reason to come back to this wonderful place.

  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.

A short break for breakfast and coffee before heading to a lower elevation for some more birding including a visit to a few hummingbird feeders.

  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.
  • Sedge warbler perched on a branch. Sheriffmuir drive birdwatching.

Heading further down the mountain the forest returned and Cristian had saved a couple of special nest sites for us. First the White-Tipped Quetzal. Then we waited for a Southern Emerald Toucanet which didn’t show but often with nature just standing still reveals something special, in this case a busy pair of Olive-Stripped Flycatchers building their nest. Lastly a pair of Scarlet-Fronted Parakeets.

  • Lush green forest in the Santa Marta Mountains with clouds and blue sky visible in the background.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Skylark perched on heather in Sheriffmuir.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.
  • Ring-necked pheasant in tall grass, showing its colorful plumage.

Absolutely wonderful birding here and a truly top birding destination. So far in Colombia I have seen 144 bird species of which an incredible 70 have been lifers. It is a sign of the quality of the location and our great guide Cristian that I have seen more lifers here than any other location since the very start of our trip – Mexico – where even a Great Tailed Grackle was a lifer! We leave Minca with a trip total of 727 species. That said we don’t expect this total to stand still as we are heading to the Andes and more birding!

Black bird in flight, "Wild Scot" text. Scottish Wildlife Photos.

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Published by Michael Cook

Wildlife Photographer based in Scotland

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